Rachel Roddy’s recipe for spaghetti with lemon, parmesan and cream | A kitchen in Rome

Lemons remind us of sunshine, and electrify both the senses and a simple, satisfying bowl of pasta Lemons are many things, and January is a good time to fill a bowl with half a dozen. Take one, dig your nail into its oily, open-pored skin, sniff and make a mental list. Lemons are also full […]

New Sally Rooney novel to be published in September

Beautiful World, Where Are You, set to be released on 7 September, follows four young people as they navigate love, friendship and sex Sally Rooney’s third novel, and her first since the widely acclaimed Normal People, will be published on 7 September. Beautiful World, Where Are You, announced by Rooney’s UK publisher Faber on Tuesday, […]

Rachel Roddy: the joy of other people’s recipe tips | A kitchen in Rome

Whether it’s an idea, a thought or a sentence, cooking chat can be both satisfying and inspiring • See Rachel’s recipes for Tuscan-style chicken and torta all figassa Years ago, somebody gave me their recipe for batter, in two ways. One as a long, chatty ramble as she stood making it, then later jotted down […]

Rachel Roddy’s recipe for rice and cabbage soup | A kitchen in Rome

Somewhere between a soup and a risotto, this soothing dish is one to win over cabbage sceptics The problem with liking cabbage so much is that I often smell of it. Not the most charismatic way to start a column, I know, especially the first of the year – happy new year! – but it […]

New Year’s Eve in the middle of the coronavirus pandemic – in pictures

The world began ushering in the New Year on Thursday, with pandemic controls muting celebrations for billions of people eager to bid farewell to 2020. Fresh waves of infection have sparked renewed lockdowns and forced would-be revellers to watch events from the sofa. From Sydney to Rome, firework displays, pyre burnings and live performances will […]

Rachel Roddy’s recipe for coffee and ricotta cream | A kitchen in Rome

A satisfying dessert that’s a cross between mousse, cheesecake filling and blancmange – enjoy with a glass of something strong His prototype in one hand, a cigar in the other, Alfonso would fall asleep in his armchair. This happened most nights, according to his wife Ada, who passed on the story to her grandson. It […]

Rachel Roddy’s Christmas recipe for cassata Siciliana cake | A kitchen in Rome

My Sicilian father-in-law taught me to love this tender, outrageously sweet dessert Learning to dip the knife in hot water before using it to spread the icing on the marzipan made me feel like a pastry chef. I must have been 10. Having spread the brilliant white and glossy royal icing like plaster, family tradition […]

Rachel Roddy: a recipe for life – and for pasta | A kitchen in Rome

When you feel stuck in life and work, start by boiling a pan of water. Then see what you have. Some greens? A handful of olives? Even just butter and cheese will do … Rachel Roddy’s work-from-home pasta lunch recipes One of our many neighbours spends a fair bit of his day just outside the […]

Gucci’s latest collection revealed in series of films by Gus Van Sant

Alessandro Michele’s online ‘GucciFest’ replaces pre-Covid catwalk fashion shows The fashion designer Alessandro Michele, having cancelled Gucci’s catwalk shows during the pandemic, needed a way to showcase his latest collection. The director Gus Van Sant, faced with a film world placed on pause by the closure of cinemas worldwide, needed a new creative project. Like […]

Rachel Roddy’s recipe for eggs in tomato sauce | A kitchen in Rome

Tripe cooked in tomato sauce is a common dish in Rome, but not everyone likes offal, so thin egg omelettes, cut into strips, make a handy substitute This isn’t a column about tripe. But also, it is a column about tripe. Half honeycomb, half rug-that-has-been-forgotten-on-the-washing-line-in-the-rain, tripe, its form and function, is fascinating and precious. Despite […]

Rachel Roddy’s recipe for semolina gnocchi with butter, parmesan and sage | A kitchen in Rome

In Rome, before potatoes (as late as the 1850s), gnocchi were made with semolina flour, mixed with cheese and egg, and baked in butter. Sounds stodgy? You’ll be surprised. Gnocchi are a cornerstone of Roman home cooking, as much a part of the city’s trattorias as rigatoni, bread, toothpicks and nonchalant chaos – especially on […]

Rachel Roddy’s recipe for bean and clam soup | A kitchen in Rome

A shellfish and bean minestre that makes a few clams go a long way What will I do when I run out of fingers? How will I keep track of the masked months – March, April, May, June, July, August, September, October – the counting of which has been my habit ever since the national […]

Rachel Roddy’s recipe for marsala cake | A kitchen in Rome

Sicily’s famous fortified wine makes for a versatile ingredient – and lends this sponge the flavours of zabaione If I could afford it, I would always have a bottle of marsala made by the De Bartoli family on my shelf. When there is one there, there is no one I would rather share it with […]

Rachel Roddy’s recipe for mushroom risotto | A kitchen in Rome

Like clockwork, the rains come to wash summer into autumn, and a seasonal risotto noses its way on to the menu Not because the angle of the sun has changed; nor because of a message from the leaves; nor even because the mushrooms were irresistible, but because it was on the schedule: I made a […]

Rachel Roddy’s recipe for panzanella | A kitchen in Rome

This punchy chopped salad of soaked and torn stale bread, onions and tomatoes dressed in olive oil and vinegar has many variations – but how will you make yours? “There is too much ambiguity in that terrible adjective, ‘true’, that would brand as false any variation, any inventiveness and departure from the rule.” This quote […]

Vatican fights to ‘free Virgin Mary from mafia’

Pope backs drive to end ‘deviant spirituality’ of Italian crime families who use Madonna as a shield of religious respectability Early in his papacy, Pope Francis responded to a particularly gruesome double murder in Calabria by travelling to the region and issuing a ringing condemnation of ’Ndrangheta, the local mafia-type organisation responsible. Addressing an audience […]

Padrenostro review – a deep dive into a director’s subconscious

Claudio Noce’s very personal picture is a beautiful mess that views the harsh adult world from a child’s perspective As a child in the 1970s, writer-director Claudio Noce stood in the wings while a leftwing terrorist group – the Armed Proletarian Cells – targeted his father, Rome’s deputy chief of police. The trauma, he says, […]

Escape: the woman who brought her trafficker to justice

Thousands of young women leave home in Nigeria every year on the promise of a good job in Europe, only to be trapped by debt and forced into prostitution. But one joined forces with investigators in Italy to expose the traffickers. By Ottavia Spaggiari Susan had been on Italian soil for exactly three days when, […]

A taste of summer: Rachel Roddy’s recipe for granita | A kitchen in Rome

The sound and smell of granita – a Sicilian invention – being scraped every half-hour has become a signature soundtrack of a sweltering Roman summer The mosquito coil smouldering away on the terrace, and scratching ice: August summed up in a smell and a sound. “If you leave it alone,” my eight-year-old tells me, “it […]

‘It’s a demarcation in the day, a bit of self-care’: how to enjoy aperitivo hour like an Italian

Aperitivos are more than just pre-dinner drinks – do them right and they’re la dolce vita in a glass. Giulia Rhodes explores how we can all embrace the pleasures of pre-dinner drinking, Italian style Starting the evening Italian style means aperitivo. A pre-dinner drink, served with snacks, friends – and ideally a prime people-watching seat […]

A city out of time: what do we dream of when we dream of Rome?

On a writing grant to the eternal city an Italian-born Australian encounters its two faces – the tourist’s fantasy and the residents’s reality My desire to live in Rome germinated on a European holiday almost 20 years ago. I exited Trastevere train station, bleary eyed after the long-haul flight, and was instantly revived by the […]

‘I just don’t exist’: the Italian chef Italy will not recognise

Luca Neves was born in Rome and has always lived there, but for 12 years he has been undocumented, trapped outside hardline migration laws ‘We want to build a life’: Europe’s paperless young people speak out Early rays of sunshine filter through the kitchen shutters as Luca Neves launches one of his daily live cooking […]

How Nespresso’s coffee revolution got ground down

Nestlé’s sleek, chic capsule system changed the way we drink coffee. But in an age when everyone’s a coffee snob and waste is wickedness, can it survive? In 1975, a young engineer named Eric Favre took a trip to Rome that would change the history of coffee. Favre had recently started working at Nestlé’s headquarters […]

Rachel Roddy’s favourite recipe for chicken and tomato | A kitchen in Rome

Mallika Basu’s murgh masala can be tweaked to your heart’s content so it changes to suit you – wherever you are The shutters remain down for some trattorie, restaurants and bars; padlocks remind us of how things were just under a month ago, how difficult things still are. Most, though, are now rolled up. And, […]

Summer’s here: Rachel Roddy’s three-bean salad recipe | A kitchen in Rome

A three-bean salad is perfect throw-together summer fare, and it will keep long enough for people to linger over to the picnic table And suddenly it is summer. Normally I spend weeks standing on the shoreline of the hottest season, reluctant to change my clothes, habits or the arrangement of things. And then, when I […]

Rachel Roddy’s recipe for couscous with sweet-and-sour aubergine and chickpeas | A kitchen in Rome

This year’s Sicilian holiday looks doubtful, but that’s no reason not to enjoy the nostalgic pleasures of caponata-style, sweet-and-sour aubergine “Lick your arm, then bite.” I remember being taught this by a Greek friend when I was about 10: to lick a salt-streaked forearm, then to take a bite of watermelon, enjoying how salty and […]

Rachel Roddy’s recipe for green beans in cream with roast chicken

The last days of lockdown and the early summer brings a gradual awakening to the trattoria of Rome, and the welcome return of a favourite dish of seasonal green beans His hands on his hips, Andrea walked down the middle of the room, counting. It was the day before restaurants and trattorie could, if they adhered […]

Dreams of Italy: readers’ travel tips

A friendly football bar, the ‘real’ sword in the stone, plus walks, festivals and fantastic food … you responded in droves to our request for Italian highlights For an unforgettable day away from the bustle of Rome, walk part of the Via Appia Antica, among the oldest paved roads in the world. For a demanding […]

Rachel Roddy’s recipe for Puglian rice and mussels | A kitchen in Rome

A simple stovetop almost-risotto of rice and mussels from the heel of Italy Pulling beards from mussels is one of the most satisfying cooking tasks. Especially when you have preoccupations tugging at your attention. In fact, maybe “tugging” is a better word to describe the mussel task; tugging the wispy beard that pokes out of […]