Rachel Roddy’s recipe for bean and clam soup | A kitchen in Rome

A shellfish and bean minestre that makes a few clams go a long way What will I do when I run out of fingers? How will I keep track of the masked months – March, April, May, June, July, August, September, October – the counting of which has been my habit ever since the national […]

Footballers and fishermen: Italy’s red prawn war with Libya turns ugly

Libyan forces holding Italian crew demand release of footballers convicted of people smuggling At two docks on opposite shores of the Mediterranean, two sets of families have been drawn into a small international crisis as the fate of 12 Italian fishermen held in Libya appears to hinge on that of four Libyan footballers jailed in […]

Mystery disease killing Italy’s kiwi fruit trees baffles scientists

Government taskforce to study sickness devastating kiwi orchards across country The leaves wither and face down as if to escape the sun; the roots darken and rot. Then the leaves fall: within 10 days, all of them are gone, leaving the fruit under the sun. Within one or two years, the plant dries up and […]

Papillon the bear: how the ‘escape genius’ sparked a national debate in Italy

Once one of Europe’s ‘most wanted’ wild animals, the now incarcerated bear has become symbolic of the conflict over the reintroduction of large predators The prisoner is in a cage measuring two by six metres, surrounded by three 7,000-volt electric fences, a four-metre-high barrier, CCTV and a number of rangers. From afar, the structure resembles […]

Storm Alex brings flooding and devastation to south-eastern France – in pictures

Flooding from record rains in a mountainous region of France and Italy has killed two people and left at least nine missing. Storm Alex ravaged villages around the city of Nice on the French Riviera, sweeping away roads and damaging homes. The storm moved across south-eastern France before hitting northern Italy Continue reading…

We Are Made in Italy: digital fashion show highlights Italian diversity

Five little-known black designers took the spotlight on the final day of Milan fashion week The fashion designer Claudia Gisèle Ntsama’s cocktail dresses are a feat of engineering, their spools of unravelled thread seemingly suspended around the body as if held in a spider’s web. Ntsama, one of five little-known black Italian designers in the […]

No catwalk masks for Milan as it looks to brighter post-pandemic future

While showgoers diligently wore face coverings, the mood was upbeat and full of Italian pride Ian Griffiths, the British designer of the luxury powerhouse Max Mara, is making clothes for “the third Italian renaissance”. At Milan fashion week the mood is optimistic for the post-pandemic future, and bursting with national pride. The clothes on the […]

‘Totally awakened’: how tragedy has left Italians alert to deadly virus

Memory of crammed hospitals lingers in adherence to Covid rules and Italy is faring better than others Coronavirus – latest updates See all our coronavirus coverage Morena Colombi, from Truccazzano, a small town near Milan, was among the first people in Italy to test positive for Covid-19 and knows only too well the impact of […]

David Atherton’s recipe for melon and cucumber granita

Serve it plain as a refreshing cooler – or with a shot of dessert wine to create a light summer pudding You don’t get much more refreshing than a granita. Traditionally, it is made with fruit juice and sugar, scraped at intervals as it freezes to create large ice crystals. When I first tried a […]

Migrant boat bursts into flames off southern Italian coast

Vessel suddenly caught fire as Italian naval ship was in the process of taking people onboard A boat carrying dozens of refugees has burst into flames off the coast of southern Italy as its passengers were being transferred to Italian naval vessels to take them to port. Three people are confirmed dead and three are […]

Destination roulette and the quarantine shuffle: the new travel landscape

The government’s ever-changing travel corridor list has turned booking a holiday into a game of chance. So what are the risks and which countries are a safe bet? It’s been a summer of chaos and confusion for holidaymakers. Yet despite ongoing uncertainty around where’s safe to visit and a general upwards trend in new coronavirus […]

Escape: the woman who brought her trafficker to justice

Thousands of young women leave home in Nigeria every year on the promise of a good job in Europe, only to be trapped by debt and forced into prostitution. But one joined forces with investigators in Italy to expose the traffickers. By Ottavia Spaggiari Susan had been on Italian soil for exactly three days when, […]

Wish It Was a Coming Out: older gay people in Italy – in pictures

Photographer Melissa Ianniello’s long-term project investigates the double taboos of homosexuality and old age in Italy. The subjects of her intimate portraits are a group of gay men and lesbians between 60 and 90 years old, captured as couples or alone in their own homes Continue reading…

Share your experiences of returning to the workplace after lockdown

Whether you work in the UK or in Europe, we want to hear your views about going back to the workplace and commuting during the coronavirus pandemic While many people in countries like France, Germany, Italy and Spain have returned to the office, those in the UK have been slower to return to their desks. […]

Endless kilometres of beach: summer in southern Sicily

In the island’s far south-east, locals are making the most of wide sands, buzzy baroque towns – and a lack of foreign tourists Has fear of coronavirus emptied the beaches – or have I chanced upon one of the last unspoiled stretches of coastline in Italy? I am on the sand at Santa Maria del […]

‘It’s a demarcation in the day, a bit of self-care’: how to enjoy aperitivo hour like an Italian

Aperitivos are more than just pre-dinner drinks – do them right and they’re la dolce vita in a glass. Giulia Rhodes explores how we can all embrace the pleasures of pre-dinner drinking, Italian style Starting the evening Italian style means aperitivo. A pre-dinner drink, served with snacks, friends – and ideally a prime people-watching seat […]

How we met: ‘We were being fired at by a sniper’

Ben Walsby, 45, and Laura Rudel, 39, met in Syria in 2012, during the early stages of the war. They are living apart due to the pandemic, but hope to reunite soon Ben Walsby was working as a human rights officer for the UN when he travelled to Damascus, Syria, for a peacekeeping mission in […]

Sun, sea, seafood … and few Covid cases: summer in southern Puglia

The Salento, in the heel of Italy’s boot, saw relatively low infection rates, but it has lost many international visitors this year, which means savings can be had Gilda Siena likes to talk – so much so she is known among her guests as “the chatty woman”. In the decade since she bought a 19th-century […]

The Festival of Ethical Photography – single shot award entries

The Festival of Ethical Photography, now in its 11th year, was created to celebrate and promote photography dealing with content judged to be ethically significant. This year’s festival, held in Lodi in northern Italy in October, will maintain physical distancing by using the city’s streets and parks as display locations Continue reading…

Summer in Germany: Three regions for a laid-back, crowd-free holiday

Canny visitors could find they have the Black Forest, ‘Saxon Switzerland’ or the Baltic coast almost to themselves Germany usually comes a little lower on British holidaymakers’ wishlists than heavyweights such as France, Italy and Spain – which means fewer tourists, and more space for clued-up Britons to enjoy. The country is getting back on […]

Dior stages cruise show: anyone for a post-lockdown corset?

Business as usual – almost – as models walk through Lecce Cathedral in Italy’s Apulia region Coronavirus – latest updates See all our coronavirus coverage In the latest sign of fashion’s determination to return to normality, Dior staged the first “cruise show” of the coronavirus era on Wednesday night, in Puglia, Italy. It was almost […]

Noble spirit: how gin became the essential aperitivo cocktail ingredient

From its monastic origins in medieval Italy to its use in the most sophisticated drinks today, gin’s complex botanicals and slightly bitter finish make it the perfect foundation for a great pre-meal tipple Aperitivo hour is the quintessentially Italian practice of taking some time out in the early evening to have a drink with a […]

Competition: enter our free prize draw to win a hamper filled with artisan Italian treats

Create your own aperitivo hour with authentic Italian gin from Malfy and delicious artisan pasta from Pasta Evangelists – enter our free prize draw for your chance to win In Italy, the much-loved tradition of aperitivo hour endures, where punctuating the end of the working day with a pre-dinner drink and a small snack is […]

Italians do it better: an expert guide to hosting an Amalfi-inspired dinner party

Giulia Rhodes speaks to some in-the-know Italians about how stunning seafood and verdant produce can add a touch of the Amalfi coast to your next dinner party From authors and actors to designers and directors, the glamorous set has long flocked to Italy’s Amalfi coast. And it’s not hard to see why. A film-set perfect […]

Seafood fraud: why your Mediterranean swordfish might actually be shark

Pressure on fish stocks has led to sharks being passed off as swordfish or tuna, endangering the Mediterranean ecosystem Franco Comes last caught sharks more than six months ago, while longline fishing for swordfish in the Adriatic Sea off the coast of Monopoli, Italy. He hauled in an accidental handful of blue sharks. They were […]

Keep it simple: what I’ve learned from cooking with chefs online

Watching Massimo Bottura cook at home is a confidence-builder for amateurs – but a melancholy reminder of the restaurant meals we’re missing The last time I watched Massimo Bottura on Instagram, life in his kitchen was, as ever, a little chaotic. Bottura’s wife, Lara, glamorous in white jeans, told a rambling anecdote at the top […]

‘I turned our home into a playground during lockdown’: one parent’s guide to keeping kids happy indoors

Faced with two children, a small flat and no garden, Covid-19 meant one couple needed to think creatively Before any of us had heard the phrase “lockdown”, my parenting style was very much of the “Let’s go …” variety. “Let’s go … to the park/cinema/museum/anywhere that will get us out of this small flat and […]